Manuel Treviño
Manuel Treviño has been in his mother's kitchen since he was four years old. He loved food, and eating of course! He was known to push his parents out of the kitchen and rummage around in the crisper pulling out assorted ingredients to make them a salad. After setting the table with carefully folded paper towels he would invite his Mom and Dad back in to eat his creation. Manuel loved to help his father on Sundays, when it was his day on the grill. For a little boy, food and fire were a fabulous and dangerous combination, and Manuel loved it.
Manuel realized early on that his mother didn't really enjoy the kitchen. She was perfectly happy letting Manuel experiment and create, though he marvels at her patience with all the burnt pots and pans and disastrous experimental meals he produced. His mom supported his attempts, cleaned up his messes and encouraged him over and over again.
His dad nurtured his love of food by taking Manuel along with him on business trips to the big cities. Manuel was able to experience a few fine dining restaurants where he fell in love with their mystique and aura. It was exciting to try new foods, feel the ambience and realize that magic was happening behind the doors to the kitchen. In Manuel's words, "I just wrapped my mind and taste buds around the whole idea of what food could really be."
Manuel grew up in a tiny little town in Texas where 98% of the population was of Mexican decent. His parents insisted that Manuel receive a college education, so he went to school, thus becoming the first member of his family to receive a bachelor's degree. He understood how important this was for his family, but he also knew that his dream was a culinary education. While at university, Manuel decided he would get a head start by working part time jobs in the restaurant business. By graduation he had worked at three restaurants, his last job being at the finest restaurant in San Antonio.
Not one to wait around, Manuel applied to NECI and was put on the waiting list. He didn't have to wait long – after graduating from college in December 1996, he was given a spot in the February 1997 class. Manuel headed to Vermont in the dead of winter to start culinary school
His first class was in the cafeteria. Within days Manuel knew he was in the right place. Even though there was five feet of snow on the ground (and quickly realizing that a pair of winter boots was a real necessity), he loved everything about NECI and Vermont.
But this wasn't going to be an easy ride for Manuel. A few weeks into classes, and with all that snow on the ground, Manuel and a block mate from his home state of Texas, decided to go skiing at Stowe. During Manuel's first run down the slope, he fell on an icy slope and broke his back. Now instead of being in class, Manuel was in the hospital and then recuperating in bed, in his Montpelier dorm room. It was enough to drive him crazy, just lying there. Manuel called his instructor and told him "I can't stand for long periods, I can't move fast, but I have two hands and a head that still work. Please let me return!" So, on crutches, Manuel returned to the cafeteria. He was fortunate that a lot of what they were learning those first months in school he had experienced during his four years of restaurant work in college. His teacher allowed him to take frequent breaks, and slowly Manuel recovered from his injury.
The first year at NECI finished well for Manuel. During the year, he met and made friends with Chef Michel LeBorgne. They hit it off immediately. When it came time to find an internship, Chef Michel asked Manuel what he wanted to do. Manuel had been contemplating an internship in France. Chef Michel responded with a resounding, "NO." An internship in France would teach him nothing. He'd stand in a kitchen and hand the chef meat from the cooler, and wouldn't be allowed to touch a thing. This was no way to learn. Manuel, thinking of a second option, asked about Mexico. With complete enthusiasm, Chef Michel connected Manuel with Benito Molina, a NECI graduate. Soon, Manuel was in Ensenada, Mexico at the flagship restaurant for the Santo Thomas winery. Having come from landlocked Texas, and then school in northern New England, this was a perfect environment to learn of the bounty of the sea. Manuel was working with the freshest seafood, some of which he'd never seen.
Manuel returned to NECI energized and eager to learn everything he could. He developed a system for himself – he'd get a job working in the location where his next class would be. Dishwashing, cleaning, teaching knife skills, guiding admissions tours, making phone calls; it didn't matter what the job or what day of the week – he worked hard. An added benefit, Manuel got to know the school really well!
He was sad when it came time to leave for his second internship. Manuel still wonders how he got the entremetier position at Le Cirque in New York City. When he arrived, the staff in the kitchen didn't realize he was there on his internship. Walking right onto the line at Le Cirque is rare. Manuel likens his experiences at Le Cirque to finishing school. This is where he took all that he had learned over two years at NECI and honed it. He ultimately reached the Tournant position, before he left in 2000, to work at Mario Batali's restaurant, Babbo. Manuel arrived to work on the grill and within eight months worked his way through the line and was promoted to sous chef. He loved working for Mario, who instilled in him an Italian style of cooking – keep it simple and to treat ingredients with reverence. Manuel developed new dishes, some of which remain on the menu to this day.
His first Executive Chef position was at Naples 45, located in Grand Central Station. It was a big lunch place that specialized in the best brick oven Neapolitan pizza in the country. In fact, the restaurant received the Verace Pizza Napolitana Seal no.199 in the world from the association, an honor that was rarely given to restaurants outside of Italy. This was a completely new experience, especially as Naples 45 was part of a big corporation. Manuel was introduced to the politics of corporate dining, and quickly learned how to play the game. It was an essential learning experience.
Manuel moved on to become the Executive Chef at Dos Caminos. Working at Dos Caminos (part of the B.R. Guest group) taught him how to run a successful restaurant business. He was responsible for the bottom line; it was a true management position. When the organization asked him to open a new restaurant, he jumped at the opportunity. The third and newest Dos Caminos at that time was to have 525 seats. Manuel thinks every chef should experience opening a restaurant. Envisioning a place from the ground up and being part of every decision is an entirely unique experience, so different from walking into an established property.
While at Dos Caminos, Manuel was selected to compete on Top Chef. Having the opportunity to work with 15 great cooks as well as the cast and crew was an eye opening experience. The most important thing he learned from the show was that he really didn't need to cook in front of a camera. He knew the place for him was in the kitchen and it was time for him to get back.
So, after spending time managing Dos Caminos, then filming Top Chef, Manuel took time off and explored Italy and Spain. By the time he returned he was ready for his newest adventure – opening a completely new restaurant. Travertine was the vision of his owner, a young ambitious restaurateur from Sidney, Australia. She partnered with Manuel and together they designed everything from the ground up. Working closely with her, Manuel had control of the menu, wine list, and kitchen design. In fall of 2009, they opened in New York City.
Chef Manuel Trevino has been chosen as NECI's 2010 Distinguished Graduate and will be speaking at this year's graduation. His advice to the students is to surround yourself with the best people, work with the best chefs, and at the best restaurants. The first couple of years out of school are critical – every step you can take to learn from the best will make you more valuable as a chef.